Helpful Hints

The CCRT rescues and re-homes dogs from all sorts of backgrounds. Many of these dogs come to us scared, unhealthy, aggressive or very aloof. We never know what kind of dog we'll get but we're always thrilled to take them into our care and help them out in every way possible.

Our volunteers have many combined years of experience working with rescued dogs and have amassed a wealth of tricks and techniques to help them cope. We share these tips with you in the hopes it will help you and your dog through challenging times.

Topics:

House Training
Dental Health/Bad Breath
Adjustment Issues
Aggression
Food Aggression
Excessive Licking

House Trainining Issues

Dog repeatedly pees in house in a favourite spot in the house

Suggestion: Try placing his food bowl on that spot at meal times.

Dog pees in a variety of places in the house.

Suggestion 1: Use a belly band.
If you are a bit handy you can make your own belly band easily - a strip of flannel (or a long tube sock will work too) and a bit of velcro (or a big child safety pin) and a panty liner is all you need. Put the liner in the cloth, and then wrap it around his belly and "pee-pee", and fasten. Change the panty liner as needed. Some dogs will stop right away when they feel the pee on their tummy, some will soak the belly bands... either way, it will help with the clean up anyways!

Suggestion 2: Use an old face cloth to make a diaper for the dog.

Suggestion 3: Put down puppy pads (or newspaper) on the floor, fill a pop bottle with water. When the dog pees (and I know it sounds gross) roll it in the urine and put it directly in the middle of the puppy pads (or paper). He will smell the urine on it and lift on the bottle as he would a tree.

Dog Does His Business in His Crate

Suggestion: The crate you are using maybe quite big and offer your dog a lot of room to 'go' yet still leaving enough comfortable, clean space for him to rest and sleep. Try putting him in a smaller crate for a period of time. Once you have established that he is no longer 'going' in that crate, try going back to his larger crate. Hopefully, he will have been trained to no longer 'go' in it.

Stinky Dog Breath

Dental Diet Hill's t/d (excellent by the way) comes in two different sizes. It comes in regular and small bites. The way it works is that the larger kibbles forces dogs to actually bite into each kibble instead of just swallowing them. The way the kibble is created is the key to its dental benefit. Inside the kibble, the composition of the fibre network does not allow it to crumble when it's bitten. All other kibbles crumble when crushed, but when the tooth bites the t/d kibble the tooth actually goes into the kibble and therefore it cleans the tooth via mechanical action. Hills has a t/d demonstration that they do on the larger size kibble. They take a screwdriver and coat it in whiteout. Then they try to crush the kibble by pushing down on it with the tip of the screwdriver. The screwdriver will actually go into the kibble and when pulled out the whiteout is gone. Basically demonstrates how the tartar/plaque is mechanically removed when the animal bites into the kibble. I definitely would be careful when giving it to dogs with sensitive mouths or bad teeth as it would hurt!

Helping a Frightened Dog Adjust to a New Home

Lie on the floor and ignore him. Let him come to you.

Take the top off the crate and turn it into a cozy bed

Move the dog's crate/bed to another location. He want to burrow under the covers, or curl up on top of them where he can watch things happening around him.

Give him electrolytes and "Rescue Remedy" (available in health food stores)

Turn radio, TV, etc. on low to cover outside noises.

Talk to your dog, but don't look at him. Use his name frequently.

If he's pacing, block his route so he can't pace in his usual pattern.

Constantly walk past him without even looking at him or speaking to him.

Put his leash on the floor where he has to go over it or at least by it often. Then move it to different locations that he walks by. Then, move it beside his food dish and eventually, touch him with the leash.

Never corner him and always let him come to you. Lie down on the ground, with no eye contact, and speak confidently to him. Baby talk is not encouraged.

Take him to the vet so he can be checked for health problems or other physical conditions that may be affecting his behaviour.

Use Rescue Remedy the day before a vet visit to lessen the stress that inevitably brings on.

Offer dog treats to all of the dogs in your home monthly. If the dog doesn't take the treat, simply put it away. He'll eventually want the treat.

If you think your dog may have food issues, trying replacing his dish with a new one. Try a different shape, size and colour. You could also try putting the food directly on the floor.

Go outside, talk to him and say his name. Hopefully, he'll come out to join you. Do not force him out or hold him outside once he gets there. Stand near him without being too close. Continue talking to him but make no eye contact.

Never, never, ever say 'it's ok' when he is nervous, pacing, upset, frightened, or displaying any negative behavious. This CANNOT be stressed enough.

Read more helpful tips in our 'Rescue Dog Adjustment Period ' document by clicking here.

Aggression

A CCRT volunteer recommends the book "Aggression In Dogs", by Brenda Aloff, which has been extremely helpful to her in learning to appropriately read her dogs' behaviour appropriately and to anticipate his actions better.

Natalie, a trainer with Smart Dog Academy (www.smartdogacademy.com) provided free training and behaviour modification assistance with a CCRT rescue dog. She worked tirelessly with the dogs’ foster home and was a wealth of information. Below you will find some of the excellent advice she gave to our foster home regarding their aggressive foster dog and we hope you will find it useful as well.

The Road to Rehab:

Slowly reintroduce the crate as a positive and pleasant resting place when you are home and when the dog must be left alone.

Anything that the dog can destroy is put away until they learn to give and back away.

Basic manners are reinforced and expected at all times.

Any human contact is positive, no more reaching for the dog and grabbing him or her away from something.

Ideally, the dog will be leashed at all times in the home until the problems are resolved. .

Remember: there will be progress, then regression, then progress again. It’s how we learn. We are turning the dog’s world a little upside down and expecting him or her to have acceptable manners. We are taking away their idea of “just because I see it, want it, don’t want to do it. I won’t have to”.

Reintroducing the crate:

Slowly and for short periods of time start putting the dog in it’s crate - several times throughout the day for 5-10 minutes.

Don’t make a fuss about it. Put a toy filled with a few of their favourite treats and make it a command to “Go to Bed” or “Kennel Up” or whatever command you choose.

Stay in the same room and not too far away.

Start increasing the time spent in the crate after 4-5 days.

Start putting the crate a little further away from you. After 1 week the dog should be in the crate and comfortable with you in the same room, close or at the other end of the room. You’ll be lugging a kennel around for a bit.

The only time the dog gets a toy with treats is for kennel time.

Toys:

Remember dogs don’t own anything; you lend them things, but can take them away at anytime.

Any toy the dog can rip apart or hide in their mouth and swallow is taken away.

A solid toy (Kong, ball, rubber, nylabone) is best.

You will need to teach your dogs the commands “leave it”, “drop it” and “take it”.

Do not reach into a dog’s mouth to grab a toy or object away unless it poses a danger to the dog

The “leave it” command means “whatever you are about to look at, sniff, grab or touch - don’t”.

“Drop it” means “whatever is in your mouth, let it go now”

“Take it” means “go ahead, you can have that toy or treat.”

Basic Manners:

Obedience commands – sit, come, down, stay, stand and heel.

Sit and stay for supper until released, when putting on the leash.

Stay used at all exits.

Every time the dog obeys a command, you have dominated the dog by telling them (nicely and with confidence) and the dog has obeyed the command.

All praise is verbal and with limited touching. Happy praise every time the dog does something right. Teaching the dog to feel good and happy without being touched will teach her not to jump up and demand the physical touching and will keep the handler in an upright position (a leadership role).

Obedience happens everywhere, in the house, outside, in the car, at the vets etc.

Everything the dog does has a command attached to it – play, rest, work, eating etc. This will show the dog that you are in control and that they don’t have to worry about anything.

Expect some resistance when the dog discovers that you are slowly taking the Alfa role. Be fun, friendly, confident and a leader. Try to do all this without the physical touch, ie pushing the dog’s hind end down for the sit, etc.

Recall is only to be taught on a leash only. If you call the dog over and he or she is not on leash, it teaches her that they can get away. Wherever the dog is you can reach out and touch the dog – on a long line, you say come, the dog looks at you and says no way, you grab the long line and give a small correction as you say no and then come and reel the dog in like a little fish. The whole time you’re smiling and telling the dog they are wonderful. This is much better than chasing your dog for an hour, ready to explode and having to smile and say good dog!

Other:

All contact is positive and friendly.

Physical dominance is to be used only if absolutely necessary with the realization that you will probably get bit.

Once contact (petting) is accepted, work on teaching your dog to accept a more restraining touch.

Leash at all times when it is safe to do so - this will keep your hands safe and away from the dog’s teeth.

It also gives you a way to touch, restrain and correct, without bending down and grabbing the dog and this helps to maintain your alpha status.

If the dog slips under the bed, sofa or just gets away from you – reach for the leash, not the dog

Patience and a confident attitude are very important as well as giving them plenty of exercise and work.

Food Aggression

General Rules For Correcting Food Aggression In Dogs

If your dog is directing his aggression towards other dogs the best solution is to simply separate them at meal times. Feed them in different rooms or in their crates.

Involve all of your family members in this dog food aggression training.

Take control of feeding time. You control the time and place of dinner time - own the food!

Make your dog earn any food. Just simple tasks like sit or a down stay is fine.

Make it clear to your young puppies that it's good to have people around when they are eating. If you do this from day one you will almost certainly prevent dog food aggression problems.

If you encounter dog food aggression it is a good idea to feed your dog after you and your family eat. This again is a throwback to your dogs pack mentality where the alpha dog or leader of the pack (which is you) eats first - your dog will understand this technique.

Don't let your dog "win" the food through his growling, this would reward the very behavior you are trying to eradicate. Don't bully or intimidate your dog though, it's much better to make him actually like having you around at meal time (follow the tips below to achieve this).

Never respond to canine possession aggression with aggression of your own. In essence what this does is to lock you and your dog into a battle of wills. Your dogs next move will most likely be to step up his level of aggression to counter your action.

Dog Food Aggression Training Techniques

Firstly, be careful. If you believe your dog poses any real physical threat to you or family members I'd advise getting professional help. Speak to a professional dog trainer or animal behaviorist.
Below is a list of training techniques which could help your dog overcome his dog food aggression. Remember all of these techniques are designed to work towards reconditioning your dog to enjoy having you around anytime. Mix it up, show your dog who is boss.

Hand feed your dogs, even stick your hands into your dogs bowl while he is eating.

Stroke and pet your dog while he is eating and at the same time talk to him in a calming tone. All you are doing at this point is showing your dog that it is a good thing for you to be around.

Stand at a distance your dog is comfortable with, then gradually reduce this distance over time. You can flick a few treats in (or near) the bowl as you slowly reduce the distance.

Put your dogs bowl down with nothing in it, your dog will look back at you as though you are crazy. He'll then literally beg you to come over and fill his bowl.

Feed your dog as normal but hold back a few pieces of his meal. When he is finished licking the bowl, he'll look back up at you, then you can come over and give him the remaining food.

Drop a few of your dogs very favorite treats into his bowl each time you walk past it. After a while of this your dog will welcome the sight of you approaching the bowl.

When your dog is eating, call him over to you, when he gets to you reward him, make it worth his while then let him back to the food bowl.

While you are preparing your dogs meal put him in a down-stay or sit position, only release him from your command once you have put his bowl down. By doing this you are controlling meal time and establishing (or re-establishing) your role as your dogs leader. To learn more about how to be a strong and respected leader I recommend Secrets Of A Professional Dog Trainer.

Work with another family member on this technique. Put your dog in his collar and leash and have him sit with your helper while you prepare the food. When you are ready release your dog and allow him his food. Again you are controlling the situation.

Try the "Trade Up Method". What you do is take away the food or toy your dog is guarding, and replace it with something better. You can use an obedience command such as "give" or "leave it" to encourage your dog to release the precious resource he is guarding. You then take this resource (the food or toy) and give the trade up item to your dog. Once your dog has finished with the new item, you can then give back the resource you took away. This technique proves to your dog that he will receive something great for giving something up, it will recondition his thinking.

If you have an older dog who has already perfected his mealtime Cujo imitation, a different approach must be taken:

Step One is to do away with his food bowl for a week or two. Shep will be dining out of your hand, a few kibbles at a time.
Step Two is to bring back the food bowl. It should remain empty until you pass by and drop a few pieces of kibble in it. After those are eaten up, you should drop small handfuls of kibble in at two-minute intervals until the entire meal has been eaten. By now your dog should be practically begging you to approach his bowl.
Step Three is to put a semi-filled bowl on the floor and as you pass by, drop in a few better-than-kibble tidbits. Then add the remaining kibble in your next pass.
Step Four is to put a full food bowl on the floor as your dog holds a sit-stay. Release him with a cheery "okay." Then once or twice a week, call your dog away from his bowl and reward him for coming over to you with a tasty tidbit. Please use your "sit-stay," "wait," and "take it" commands with the dog so it is absolutely clear to Shep who owns the kitchen and the tasty morsels in it.

Each of these steps should be undertaken for 10 to 14 days for both breakfast and dinner. While you are grappling with a food-guarding problem, your dog should wear a leash at mealtimes as a safety measure. Don't use it to correct him unless you are in jeopardy of being hurt. Since food guarding seldom happens in a vacuum and often signals other problems in the dog/owner relationship, a basic obedience course is highly recommended for canines who exhibit this behavior. Finally, if you experience any backsliding, return to Step One. Slow and steady wins this contest of wills.

Excessive Licking

There are many reasons a dog may lick excessively (paws, between toes, etc.) Among them are:

Environmental allergies

Stress or boredom

Dry skin

Irritation caused by walking on de-icer or salt on ice/snow covered sidewalk.

Soap residue left over from a recent bath

Allergy/reaction to cleaning products on floors or carpter

Matted fur between his toes/pads. Licking the top of paws can be indicative to aches/arthritis in the paws.

Licking or sucking another dog could be a throw back to being removed from his mother too early

Possible Solutions

CCRT strongly encourages you to take your dog to the vet if he/she begins to lick or increases the frequency. Try to rule out allergies by asking a vet to recommend a brand and dosage of over the counter medicine (ie, Benadryl). Give this to your dog as per the vet's recommendation to see if it stops the dog from licking.

A CCRT volunteer suggests a Cesar Milan technique. Cesar says the dog is doing it because he can. Now stop him from doing it with the "shht", the "hand bite" and push him away from the object he's licking. In case you don't know what "shht" and "hand bite" means - when the dog begins to lick, say "shht" in a forceful voice. If that does not work try pinching the back or side of his neck with your fingers - this is representative of the mother neck biting to correct a behavior.